In coarse fishing, your main line and hooklength have a direct effect on how many bites turn into fish on the bank. In this category you will find main lines for feeder and float fishing, hooklength materials and ready-tied hooklengths. Main lines are split into monofilament and braid, and hooklengths into materials and ready-tied options. That way the whole line system is in one place.
Your main line depends on your fishing style. In float fishing, the properties of monofilament really matter: a sinking match line gets under the surface quickly, so wind and surface drift do not pull your float off line. A more buoyant line, on the other hand, suits situations where you need to lift line off the surface quickly on the strike.
In feeder fishing, the stretch of monofilament cushions the fight and is forgiving at short range. Braided line has almost no stretch, so bites show clearly on the tip even at distance and the strike connects properly. With a heavy feeder, a shock leader is often tied in front of the braid to take the strain of the cast.
The hooklength is the finest part of the setup, and its diameter is matched to the fish, water clarity and bait. Mono hooklengths are supple and behave naturally, while fluorocarbon is less visible in the water and stands up better to abrasion. When the hooklength is lighter than the main line, any break happens there and you get your feeder or float back.
Ready-tied hooklengths save time, because you do not have to tie small hooks on the bank with cold fingers. Keep a few sizes and diameters in your box so you can change hooklengths according to how the fish are feeding on the day.
Store your lines out of direct light, as sunlight weakens monofilament over time, and replace your main line regularly. A fresh line on the reel is one of the cheapest ways to avoid losing a good fish.